Ingonish Beach

Two kinds of swimming are available on one beach in Cape Breton, and the line between them is a ridge of pebbles. Ingonish Beach lies within Cape Breton Highlands National Park on the Atlantic side of the Cabot Trail, where a long bar of rounded cobbles, known as a barachois, separates the open ocean from the sheltered water of Freshwater Lake. On one side the Atlantic Ocean rolls in cold and clear. On the other, the lake is often noticeably warmer, shallow and calm. Swimmers can do both in minutes, walking over the stones to rinse off in the lake after the ocean's chill.

The beach combines sand and smooth, rounded stones, with a boardwalk leading to an overlook above the shoreline. Lifeguards are on duty on the ocean side during July and August, and facilities include a bathhouse with toilets, showers and changing rooms, which usually opens in late June, and beach wheelchairs can be reserved by those who need them. A trail of under two kilometres loops around Freshwater Lake, much of it with handrails and a surface that suits wheelchairs and strollers, and birdwatchers often spot herons, kingfishers and eagles along the way. The beach is closed in winter.

The wider area is rich in walks and views. The Middle Head Trail leads out along a narrow peninsula with cliffs on both sides, a rewarding walk near the Keltic Lodge resort, and the Freshwater Lake Look-Off offers a view back across the lake and the beach to the highlands. Cape Smokey rises to the south along the Cabot Trail, with its famous switchbacks and drop to the sea. Nearby Ingonish village has restaurants, shops and accommodation, and a golf course on the oceanfront draws players from across the region.

Visitors pay the daily park entry fee, which Parks Canada charges a daily park entry fee or requires a pass, which can be bought at entry booths or visitor centres. Late afternoon gives the warmest water in the lake, while late August and early September bring fewer people and quieter shores. Sunrise over the Atlantic is striking from the south end.

Check road conditions before travelling, since closures happen on the island, and bring a towel, sun protection and water shoes for the pebbles. The beach suits families, walkers and anyone who likes a choice of water temperatures.