Skyline Trail

Few walks in Atlantic Canada end the way the Skyline Trail does. After a gentle stroll through spruce and fir on the high plateau of French Mountain, the path breaks out of the trees onto a headland, and the land simply stops. Below, the Cabot Trail curls along the base of the cliffs, and beyond it the Gulf of St. Lawrence spreads to the horizon, with the sun glittering on the water. The trail is the most photographed and most walked in Cape Breton Highlands National Park, and on a clear evening it deserves the reputation.

The route is a loop of about 8.2 kilometres, and most people take two to three hours. The first section follows a wide, level former road across the plateau, an open area of stunted trees, bogs and low scrub where the wind blows constantly. After the loop splits, the trail leads out to the cliff edge by a long boardwalk with a staircase complex that descends toward the viewing platforms, set on the brink of the headland high above the sea. The boardwalks mean that people of many abilities can enjoy the view without damaging the fragile barrens, and the return leg climbs back through forest.

Wildlife is a bonus. Moose are seen on the plateau, especially around dawn and dusk, and the park's guidelines ask walkers to stay well back and never approach them. Whales sometimes surface off the coast, and bald eagles and hawks ride the updrafts along the cliff. In autumn the highlands blaze with red and orange. Bring binoculars and be patient at the viewing platforms.

The trailhead is on the Cabot Trail, roughly fifteen minutes north of Chéticamp, and it is one of the busiest parking areas in the park. In summer the lot frequently fills up and sometimes closes in the middle of the day, so arriving early or in the evening is the best plan. Parks Canada may require reservations at peak times, so check the current rules online. A valid park pass or daily entry fee covers the visit, and the Parks Canada Discovery Pass is accepted.

Visitors should prepare for fog and wind, which can arrive without warning on the coast, and wear sturdy footwear for the boardwalks. Sunset is spectacular, but carry a headlamp if you plan to walk back in low light. Families with older children manage the loop comfortably.