The Cabot Trail

Few drives in Eastern Canada have the reputation of the Cabot Trail. It loops for about 298 kilometres around the northern end of Cape Breton Island in Nova Scotia, climbing headlands, dropping into river valleys and following long stretches of sea cliff. The road opened in the early 1930s, and its name recalls John Cabot, the explorer who sailed for England in 1497 and is traditionally linked with the island, though historians still debate exactly where he landed.

Most travellers set off from Baddeck on Bras d'Or Lake and drive the loop in either direction. Without stops it takes about five hours, but a full day or two is more realistic. About half of the route runs through Cape Breton Highlands National Park, created in 1936, where a park pass is required. The park encloses a high forested plateau cut by deep river canyons, and its roadside viewpoints look down onto the Atlantic Ocean and the Gulf of St. Lawrence. The Skyline Trail is the best known walk, a loop out to a cliff edge where moose and whales are sometimes seen, and trails near Ingonish and Cheticamp offer shorter and gentler options.

Visitors will find that communities along the way give the trail its character. Cheticamp, on the western side, is an Acadian fishing village known for hooked rugs, music and French-language culture. Pleasant Bay is a base for whale-watching trips. Near the northern tip, villages such as Neil's Harbour and Bay St. Lawrence have lighthouses, small chowder houses and wharves. On the eastern side Ingonish Beach is one of the few warm swimming spots, while St. Ann's is home to the Gaelic College and a reminder of the island's Scottish heritage. Small craft studios, pubs with live fiddle music and community museums appear in many of the villages.

Weather matters. Fog can cover the coast in summer, and autumn colours in late September and early October draw large crowds, so accommodation must be booked early. Winter conditions can close sections, and some park services run only from May to October. Fuel up in the larger villages, as stations are sparse in the highlands.

Drive slowly and use the pull-offs, since the road is narrow and the scenery is distracting. Alexander Graham Bell's museum in Baddeck makes a fitting stop at the start or end of the trip.