Twillingate

Twillingate sits on two islands, North and South Twillingate, at the edge of Notre Dame Bay on Newfoundland's northeast coast. The causeway that joins the main island to New World Island carries the road from Route 340, the scenic highway often called the Road to the Isles, through a landscape of coves, rocky points and small fishing communities. The town of Twillingate itself has about two thousand residents and is the main service centre for the islands, with a hospital, shops, restaurants, inns and a small harbour.

English and Irish settlers fished here from the eighteenth century, and Twillingate grew into one of the busiest fishing and sealing ports on the northeast coast. Its prosperity left a stock of painted wooden houses on steep streets, stages and fish sheds at the water, and a strong tradition of music and storytelling. The cod moratorium of 1992 hit the economy hard, but the town adapted by welcoming visitors who come for the sea, the icebergs and the character of an outport that kept its identity.

Icebergs are the big seasonal event. Pieces of the Greenland ice sheet calve into the sea, drift south on the Labrador Current and pass the northeast coast of Newfoundland in April, May and June, with the peak of viewing in many years in late May and June. Twillingate calls itself the iceberg capital of the world, a claim that holds up in good years. In a heavy ice year you can see several bergs from shore, and in a light year there may be few; the timing and number vary and cannot be predicted far in advance. Local sources and tourism offices post sightings.

Long Point Lighthouse is the best-known viewpoint. The lighthouse was built in 1876 and stands on a high headland at the northern edge of the islands. From the lookout platforms you can watch for icebergs and, in summer, humpback whales feeding offshore. A small museum interprets the light and its keepers, and picnic tables look over the water.

Boat tours operate from the town harbour in the season, with excursions to see icebergs and whales and, in places, seabird colonies. Tours run from late spring to early autumn, and the exact schedule depends on weather. Sea kayaking is possible with a guide.

Hiking is a major draw too. A network of coastal trails around the islands follows headlands, past sea stacks, and to lookouts. Back Harbour Head, French Beach and other places on the northern side make good short walks. Wear sturdy shoes, keep to the paths near cliff edges and expect wind.

On New World Island, Dildo Run Provincial Park occupies a sheltered cove that locals have used for generations. The park has a campground, a picnic area and hiking along the shore and through the spruce woods. The name raises smiles among visitors, but it is a traditional Newfoundland place name. The cove is a good place for a quiet afternoon or an overnight stay.

Other things to do include a visit to Twillingate's winery, which blends fruit wines and uses water from icebergs in some of its products, the local museum in the old Anglican rectory, which displays fishing and community history, and the small shops and craft studios. Restaurants and takeout shacks serve cod, mussels, moose and traditional dishes such as fish and brewis and toutons.

The best time to come depends on your goal. For icebergs, aim for late May to early July; for whales, plan July and August. Summer days are mild but can be foggy, and evenings cool quickly. From September to November the islands are quieter, the autumn light is clear and the barrens colour red. Winter is long and snowy, and many businesses close.

By road, Twillingate is about one hundred kilometres north of Gander and Lewisporte. The drive from the Trans-Canada Highway takes you across several causeways and past many small communities,. Book summer accommodation early, since the town is small and busy in the iceberg season.