How Toronto Is Laid Out
Toronto is a city of neighbourhoods, many of them with a distinct character, but most first-time visitors spend their time in a fairly compact area between Lake Ontario and Bloor Street. Yonge Street divides the city into east and west, and the subway, streetcars and walking connect almost everything below. Union Station, at the foot of downtown, links the subway, GO Transit trains and the UP Express from Pearson Airport.
Pay TTC fares with a PRESTO card or by tapping a credit or debit card or phone. The subway covers the main north-south and east-west lines, and streetcars run along King, Queen, Dundas and Spadina. For a first visit, staying near a subway line saves time, and walking between downtown neighbourhoods is often faster than driving.
The neighbourhoods below are grouped by what they are best for, with notes on where it makes sense to stay.
Downtown Core and Entertainment District
The area around King and Front Streets contains the CN Tower, Ripley's Aquarium, the Rogers Centre, Scotiabank Arena and the TIFF Lightbox, home of the Toronto International Film Festival. The Entertainment District, along King Street West, has theatres, restaurants and many hotels.
This is the most practical base for a short first trip: Union Station is close, most major sights are walkable, and you have plenty of choice of accommodation. Weekend evenings are busy and hotel prices are highest during major events and festivals.
Old Town, St. Lawrence and the Distillery District
East of Yonge, Old Town is the site of the original Town of York. St. Lawrence Market is a large food market with butchers, bakers, cheese counters and lunch counters, and the Gooderham Flatiron Building sits nearby at Front and Church. Further east, the Distillery District has more than 40 Victorian industrial buildings on pedestrian-only brick lanes, now filled with galleries, shops and restaurants. Old Town is quieter than the Entertainment District at night and still within walking distance of downtown.
Kensington Market, Chinatown and Queen West
West of University Avenue, Kensington Market is a dense grid of narrow streets with independent food shops, vintage clothing stores, cafés and street art. It has long been a landing place for immigrant communities, and that history shows in its food. Next to it, Chinatown runs along Spadina Avenue around Dundas Street, with bakeries, grocers and restaurants. The Art Gallery of Ontario is a short walk east on Dundas. Plan at least half a day here and come hungry.
A few blocks south, Queen Street West, especially beyond Spadina, is known for independent fashion, design shops and restaurants. Trinity Bellwoods Park is a popular gathering place on summer weekends, and nearby Ossington Avenue has a concentration of bars and restaurants. This area suits visitors more interested in food and shopping than landmarks. Staying here is possible, though there are fewer large hotels.
Yorkville and the Annex
Yorkville, just north of Bloor Street, is Toronto's upscale shopping and dining district, with boutique hotels, galleries and designer stores on Bloor's "Mink Mile." The Royal Ontario Museum and the Gardiner Museum are on its edge. West along Bloor, the Annex is a residential area of Victorian houses next to the University of Toronto, with bookshops, cafés and inexpensive restaurants. Both sit on the Bloor-Danforth subway line, so getting downtown is quick.
The Waterfront and Toronto Islands
The Harbourfront area along Queens Quay has lakeside paths, the Harbourfront Centre arts venue and ferry terminals. From the Jack Layton Ferry Terminal, city ferries cross to the Toronto Islands in about 15 minutes. The islands are car-free, with beaches, parkland, bike rentals and one of the best views of the city skyline, especially at sunset. In summer, lines for the ferry can be long on weekends, so go early.
East End: Leslieville and the Danforth
For a more local feel, Leslieville, east of the Don River along Queen Street East, has cafés, brunch spots and small shops. The Danforth, along the Bloor-Danforth line, is Toronto's historic Greektown, with many Greek restaurants. Both are a streetcar or subway ride from downtown and work well for a half day, particularly if you want to see how Torontonians spend a weekend away from the tourist core. Riverdale Park, between the two, has one of the best views back toward the downtown skyline.