Musée de la civilisation

On the edge of the Lower Town, between the cruise port and the old stone streets, an angular building of limestone and glass holds one of Canada's most inventive museums. The Musée de la civilisation opened in 1988 and was designed by the architect Moshe Safdie, who also created Habitat 67 in Montreal. His building does not hide from its setting. It folds the 18th-century Maison Estèbe, a merchant's house, and the nearby Maison Chevalier into its walls, steps down toward the Saint Lawrence River in a series of terraces, and puts a tall bell-shaped tower and a pitched roof in dialogue with the roofs of Old Quebec.

The museum's mission is wider than art or history alone. It looks at human societies, their ideas, their beliefs and their ways of living, and it does so through temporary exhibitions that change frequently and a few long-running permanent ones. Many of the shows are designed to be experienced as well as seen, with immersive sets, sound, film, interactive stations and playful design, and they often take on current topics such as identity, technology, food, migration and the environment. The collections behind them number more than 225,000 objects, covering fields such as ethnology, archaeology, decorative arts, textiles and science, and they provide material for the exhibitions as well as for research.

The permanent exhibition on the history of Quebec and its peoples is a good place to begin. It traces the story from the first inhabitants through the French regime, British rule and the modern era, using objects, voices and images to show how a distinct society took shape on the shores of the river. Children have a dedicated space for hands-on exploration, and the museum offers workshops and activities for families, particularly during school holidays. The atrium and the surrounding terraces are open and bright, with views of the water, and a café and boutique are on site.

Visitors will find that accessibility is a priority, with elevators, ramps and services for visitors with visual or hearing impairments, and some exhibitions offer tactile or audio elements. Opening hours, ticket prices and discounts, including the passes available for several museums in the region, change over time, so check the official website. The museum is within walking distance of Place Royale, the Petit-Champlain district and the Old Port.

A visit takes two to three hours, longer if you join a guided tour. It is an especially good choice on wet or cold days and appeals to families, design lovers and curious travellers alike.