Lake Massawippi

Lake Massawippi is a long, narrow lake in Quebec’s Eastern Townships, in the Canton de Hatley, about an hour and a half’s drive south-east of Montreal. It is about seventeen kilometres long and stretches north to south between rolling, forested hills, with the village of North Hatley at its northern end and Ayer’s Cliff at the southern end. The lake covers about nineteen square kilometres, and it is one of the deepest and cleanest in the region, which gives it dark, cold water and a calm, spacious look. The name is thought to come from an Abenaki word associated with deep water, and Abenaki people lived and travelled in this district long before European settlers arrived.

The lake’s setting is one of its main charms. Wooded slopes rise from the shore, with farms and orchards in the valley and low mountains in the distance, and the colours in autumn are spectacular. Many houses and cottages line the shore, from old summer villas to modern lake homes, and several grand hotels and inns, including Manoir Hovey, look out over the water. In the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, wealthy American families, particularly from the southern states, built summer houses here to escape the heat, and their influence can still be seen in the architecture and in the cultural life of North Hatley.

Recreation is centred on the water. Swimming, boating, kayaking, canoeing, sailing and paddleboarding are popular in summer, and public access points, including a beach at Ayer’s Cliff, allow visitors to get into the lake. The depth and cold of the water make it good for fish, and anglers catch smallmouth bass, perch, pike and lake trout. In winter, the lake freezes, and skating, ice fishing and cross-country skiing take over, with the snow-covered hills making a quiet backdrop. Visitors will find that shoreline walks, cycling routes and scenic drives offer wide views, and the surrounding countryside has vineyards, cheese makers and farm stands.

In autumn, thousands of migratory birds, including waterfowl, stop on the lake, and birdwatchers come to see them. Wooded shores shelter herons, kingfishers and loons, and the quiet of the water makes it easy to hear their calls. Conservation groups work to protect the lake’s water quality, and visitors are asked to respect the shoreline and follow rules on boats and fishing.

The village of North Hatley is the best base for visiting, with cafes, restaurants, galleries and a small theatre. The lake is open to the public all day, and entry is free, though some access points and boat launches charge fees. It suits couples, families and anyone who wants a restful break in a beautiful setting. Allow a day for the water and the village, and check weather and conditions before boating.