George Street

George Street is the best-known nightlife street in St. John’s, Newfoundland and Labrador, a short pedestrian lane in the downtown, a block uphill from the harbour. It is often said to have more pubs and bars per square metre than any other street in North America, and whether or not the claim can be measured, the density is striking. Within a couple of blocks are more than a dozen pubs, nightclubs and restaurants, and on a summer weekend night the street is full of people moving from door to door. The street runs between the St. John’s Convention Centre and Beck’s Cove, and it is closed to cars in the evening so that the crowds can fill the roadway.

The pubs mix Irish, Newfoundland and modern styles. Many have live music, with fiddles, accordions and guitars playing traditional songs from the island alongside rock, folk and country. O’Reilly’s Irish Newfoundland Pub and Trapper John’s are among the best known, and their regular performers are part of the street’s reputation. Others are cocktail bars, sports bars and late-night eateries, and the atmosphere is friendly, noisy and informal. Visitors who want to be part of local tradition can take part in a screech-in, a humorous ceremony in which newcomers are made honorary Newfoundlanders by saying a phrase, drinking a shot of screech rum and kissing a codfish. It is a lighthearted rite that locals and visitors both enjoy.

The street also has a daytime life. The buildings are old, many of them in brick from the years after the Great Fire of 1892, and the lane is quiet and relaxed in the morning and afternoon, when a coffee or a meal can be had at a quiet table. Food ranges from pub fare, including fish and chips, chowder and fried cod tongues, to more adventurous dishes, and late-night snack vendors keep the street fed after the pubs close.

The best-known event is the George Street Festival, held each August, when several days of concerts and street entertainment draw big crowds from across the region. Other events, including holiday celebrations and music nights, take place through the year, and the street is a focus of the city’s social life.

Visitors will find it easy to reach on foot from the harbour, with Water Street one block below and the Rooms and the Cathedral of St. John the Baptist nearby. The street suits adults who enjoy music and pubs. Plan to come after dark for the full atmosphere, keep an eye on your belongings in the crowds and take a taxi home late at night. It is free to walk, and it is a vivid introduction to the city’s social character.