Banff Upper Hot Springs

Soaking in a hot outdoor pool with snow-dusted peaks all around is one of the signature pleasures of the Rocky Mountains, and Banff Upper Hot Springs is the place to do it. The pool sits partway up the slope of Sulphur Mountain, a few kilometres above the town of Banff, at a higher elevation than any other commercial hot spring in Canada. Its water comes from the same geological system as the Cave and Basin springs, which were set aside in 1885 as the seed of Canada's first national park, and bathing here has been part of the Banff’s story since the 1880s.

The water emerges from the mountain rich in sulphate and calcium, with a mild mineral scent that is rarely overpowering. It is kept in the range of roughly 37 to 40 degrees Celsius, and the large pool is open to the sky, so on a cold winter evening steam drifts upward and snow melts on contact. In summer the setting is just as striking, with the forested ridge and sky above and a gentle breeze on your shoulders. The pool is a communal one, with bathers of all ages, and sound carries on the quiet air.

The bathhouse, built in the early 1930s, is a federal heritage building in a rustic style that blends with the mountain setting. Changing rooms, lockers and towel and swimsuit rentals are available, which means that visitors do not need to bring anything beyond themselves. A cafe and gift shop sit in the main building, and a small spa area offers massages.

Entry is on a first-come, first-served basis, and tickets are purchased on arrival, with no advance reservation. Crowds are heaviest in the afternoon and evening during summer and over holiday weekends, so going near opening time or late at night is calmer. Access is easiest on Roam Transit Route 1 (Sulphur Mountain), which runs from downtown Banff, and the Banff Gondola base is next door, so the two attractions combine well. Parking at the site is limited.

A soak here suits sore legs after a day of hiking or skiing, and the experience is gentle enough for families. Opening hours and prices vary by season, so check the Parks Canada website before setting out.