The Fairmont Empress

Presiding over Victoria's Inner Harbour with its ivy-covered walls and copper-topped towers, the Fairmont Empress has been the city's most photographed building since it opened in 1908. The Canadian Pacific Railway commissioned it as a luxury hotel to serve its steamship service across the Pacific, and it was designed by Francis Rattenbury, the young English architect who had also designed British Columbia's Parliament Buildings, which sit just across the road. The result is a Châteauesque design that borrows the steep roofs, turrets and stone detail of the French chateaux of the Loire. Located in the capital of British Columbia, it has been designated a National Historic Site of Canada.

The building was extended in the 1910s and again in the 1920s, and its public rooms keep a sense of old Edwardian grandeur. The lobby has high ceilings, oriental carpets and comfortable seating, and portraits and royal memorabilia recall the many monarchs, politicians and film stars who have stayed. The hotel stands on Government Street, a short walk from the Royal BC Museum and the waterfront. Its position at the head of the harbour means the facade is part of any harbour stroll, whether or not you stay.

The best-known tradition here is afternoon tea, served daily in the Tea Lobby with tiered stands of sandwiches, scones and pastries, and a blend created for the hotel. It has been a Victoria ritual for a century and often needs to be booked in advance in summer. Dress codes and menu details change, so confirm them when reserving. The hotel also has restaurants, a lounge and a spa, though most visitors come for the tea and the building.

A good way to see the Empress is to start on the harbour side, where the whole facade is visible with boats and street performers in the foreground. In December the exterior is outlined in lights. Walk through the lobby, look at the gardens and then continue on to the Parliament Buildings, the Royal BC Museum or the shops of Government Street.

Visitors drawn to history will enjoy it, and it suits architecture fans, architecture fans and couples looking for a special afternoon in Victoria. Public access to some areas is restricted, so check what is open before going.