Back Bay

Great Slave Lake is one of the great lakes of the world, the deepest in North America at more than 600 metres and so large that its far shore is out of sight, and Back Bay is the sheltered inlet where Yellowknife meets it most closely. The bay lies on the edge of Old Town in the capital of the Northwest Territories, the oldest part of the city, tucked behind the rocky ridge that carries the Bush Pilots Monument, and its calm water makes it a natural harbour in a lake that can turn rough in a westerly wind. The shoreline is a jumble of bare granite, spruce, small docks and boats, and the setting combines wilderness and settlement in a way that is typical of the North.

The district is known for its unusual homes. A community of houseboats floats in the shelter of the bay in summer and settles into the ice in winter, when residents walk out over the frozen water to reach their doors. The houseboats range from simple floating cabins to elaborate structures with decks and gardens, painted in bright colours and decorated with whatever the owners like, and some residents have lived here for decades. Along the shore, wooden houses and larger homes stand among the rocks, and Yellowknife's famous street names, such as Ragged Ass Road, are only a short walk away. While the community is private, visitors should look from the public paths and respect residents' privacy.

Water is the main activity. In summer, kayaks, canoes and paddleboards launch from the shore, sailboats from the local yacht club tack across the bay, and floatplanes from the nearby base take off and land, a reminder that aircraft are still a main form of transport to remote communities. Fishing for pike, lake trout and whitefish is popular, and rental outfitters offer paddling in the warmer months, though their schedules vary by season. The midnight sun gives almost endless daylight around the summer solstice, so an evening paddle can last past midnight.

Winter changes the scene. The bay freezes to a thickness that allows ice roads to run across the lake, including a route used to reach the Yellowknives Dene community of Dettah, and skiers, skaters and snowmobilers use the ice. The aurora borealis is often visible from the shore on clear, cold nights, and a walk along the water away from streetlights can be rewarding, though wrapping up warmly is essential.

Back Bay is free to visit and reached on foot from the main streets of Old Town. Visitors can combine it with the Bush Pilots Monument and the cafés, galleries and museum of Old Town, and a few hours is enough. The area suits photographers, paddlers and anyone who wants to see northern life up close.